Gipsy’s, Tramps, and a Little Bull.
if you leave now....you can still make it. To the Fete de Gitans - that happens every year in May,
On May 24 and 25 to be exact. St. Marie de La Mer, usually a quiet little village that is considered the capital of the Camargue, becomes anything but quiet.
Why is this important? Previous versions of Tales of the Mistress touched more on the fascinating history of the Gipsy’s, Gitan’s, the Rom’s, the Manouche’s, and a few other names this group of people is known by. A lot of the inspiration for the Mistresses- the keepers of the wheat fields and seeds - came from these wandering and musical people who cherish community and tradition.
But back to getting there, take a plane to Paris and then the train from Charles de Galle airport to Arles. From Arles, its best to rent a car (or a horse?) and go south along the Petit Rhone River to St. Marie de la Mer on the southern coast of France, in a remote area called the Camargue.
The Camargue is not anything like the Riviera which lies further east and is sprinkled with luxury, high prices and even, well, a bit of good healthy nude french sun-bathing. But even so, to my mind the Camargue is a much better place to visit. It’s wild and resplendent with long stretches of sand, alive with flamingoes and the home of - who would have guessed it- sea salt.
On May 25 this little village, whose thriving business has become tourism, swells to a few thousand visitors and welcomes them to the gypsy pelegrinage, or pilgrimage.
This fantastic celebration explores the legend of Sara and the tales (not tails) of the white horses of the region. In french they are called Cheval Blanc. A fantastic piece about them is this 1953 film, White Mane.
Greek mythology plays a role too. Apparently Neptune is the dude who lent some of his white horses to calm the black bulls, which are so much a part of the area's rich folklore.
"Remember, he comes from the sea and was led from a god, anytime he wants to run back to the sea, leave him."
Oui, mon amie, Bull is many things in this region - an animal, a game, and an entree - the Camargue bull is raised on farms just for the purpose of regional dishes. Bulls are treated differently in Spain, where the bull fights lead to a slaughtered bull. In Arles and the Camargue, bull games are played in the arena. No bulls die there.
So after the fete in St. Marie de la Mer, try a little bull. You'll find it on the menus as taureau - and below is a recipe we have made with both Madeleine, when she was there as well as her chef husband, Erick Vedel, in his cooking school in Arles, Association et Cuisine Provencale with Teens for C’est si Bon!’s programs, Taste the Adventure.
Taureau Sauvage a la Gardiane is a delicious and traditional dish made with bull or beef braised with olives, tomatoes and orange, and comes straight from the traditions of Arles, Provence.
Finally, if someone asks you if this is a bunch of bull, you can say enthusiastically, yes. Yes! Yes!
Of course, in America we have to use beef. This dish is made in a similar fashion as a classic beef bourguignon, but with very different flavors.I hope you’ll try it and let me know how you like it! And if it makes you feel a little bullish. Or like a Gipsy?
Taureau Sauvage a la Gardiane, from Erick Vedel’s Kitchen
1 chuck roast, about 3 pounds
sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper
2 tablespoons flour
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 1/2 ounces salt pork or salt belly of pork
30 or so black crinkly nicoise olives, pitted
1 cup roughly diced carrots
2-3 garlic cloves, smashed salted and chopped
2-3 shallots, chopped fine
1 cup roughly diced onions
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 stem fresh sage leaves
1 bunch fresh chopped parsley
½ bottle languedoc wine, your favorite
1 quart beef or veal stock, maybe more
juice and zest of 2 oranges
1-2 t. tomato paste
2 small bay leaves
First get your mise en place together. Mise en place means a place for everything and everything in its place.
So, first season the roast with sea salt and freshly cracked pepper, Set this aside on a large baking sheet, chop your veggies adding them to the sheet too. gather all remaining ingredients. approach the stove, and heat a large, wide pan (2 qt.) that you can later cover, over medium heat.
Add the olive oil and salt pork when the pan is hot. When the salt pork has rendered out its fat, add the roast, and sear each side very well. This searing is key to giving great deep rich color and flavor to the finished dish. If I see you haven’t seared the meat well, you’ll have to stand in the corner with no wine for 15 minutes.
All right, maybe just ten.
Then remove the seared roast to the large baking sheet and add in the vegetables. Sauté till slightly brown, but not burnt terribly. Add the flour to make a roux with the sautéed veggies, stirring well and frequently over low heat until an even light brown color is obtained. The roux (and the vegetables, bien sur!) should have an even light brown color and give off the scent of roasted nuts. Deglaze the pan with the wine, stirring up any browned bits. Add the stock, continuing to stir well as the sauce thickens. dd the orange, the tomato, and the bay leaves. Add the roast and bring the liquid to a boil, then reduce the heat and allow it to gently simmer for about two hours.
Serve with a wonderful rustic bread. and invite your dearest and most feral and hungriest acquaintances.
